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Post by ZacYates on Apr 21, 2009 19:03:05 GMT 12
The end is in sight! Firewall is on, and hopper box is in progress. Pics soonish Mike, for the colour scheme carried by BSQ, is the machine silver and red or white and red? Ditch, BSQ's regular pilot, was in today but it totally slipped my mind to ask!
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Post by mstokes on Apr 21, 2009 19:19:00 GMT 12
BSQ was Aluminum/Silver doped with the red trimmings, later on she was repainted with white.
It appears to be the same Aluminium dope used on post war Wirraways.
I just used a spray can of 'natural metal'. Ahhh... the days before my airbrush...
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Post by ZacYates on Apr 21, 2009 19:21:27 GMT 12
I'll go with the silver....got enough trouble with the white on my Fieldair DC3, not to mention the multiple Fu24s in my future!
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Post by mstokes on Apr 21, 2009 19:26:38 GMT 12
I find that for a base on my white, the Tamiya white primer is excellent and allows you to have both a good primer for the paint to adhere to as well as giving the white depth without having too many layers.
I have my Fieldair DC3 ready to go as well, Aires detail set + true details weighted wheels and resin engines... if I can ever get my scratch build done.
Finished the unimog today... taken most of my modelling time. A very painful model and unsatisfactory modelling experience...
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Post by mstokes on Apr 21, 2009 19:27:34 GMT 12
Oh, I checked a few of those decals, and they worked without needing to coat them. The bonder was well worth the money!
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Post by ZacYates on Apr 21, 2009 19:28:14 GMT 12
Far too many wheels to be a real model Luckily my Fieldair Dak is only 1:144, doing her inflight....ah, gotta love speedbuilds! Thanks for the advice regarding white. Having a FULL CAN would probably help matters, too *blushes*
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Post by mstokes on Apr 21, 2009 19:31:32 GMT 12
Hehe...
To try and get the dregs out of a can, you can always shake it up like, but then place it in a bowl of warm water (say 50-60 degrees). I had another modeller show me how to do it, even with a full can, and it really gets the pressure up a bit and helps the spray cans atomise the paint a bit better.
When funds allow though, go the airbrush. It has changed my life!!! ;D
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Post by Fletcher400 on Apr 22, 2009 3:40:49 GMT 12
The Tamiya white is a great paint primer, also I have found that using automotive paint primer is excellent aswell I will be using this on the 20th fletcher, then will use an enamel for the top coat. A couple of years ago I bought a Badger airbrush, best investment I ever made for modelling! Look forward to your pics Zac
Cheers.
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Post by mstokes on Apr 22, 2009 16:33:30 GMT 12
I will probably need an automotive spray painter to paint mine... I don't think the local hobby store has quite enough white tins for a 1/20 scale Fletcher ;D
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Post by ZacYates on Apr 22, 2009 17:06:21 GMT 12
I ain't planning on white for my 1:20 one
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Post by mstokes on Apr 22, 2009 17:11:03 GMT 12
Cool Zac, I know you want to do the Robertson's scheme with the natural metal panels. Twenty shades of Alcad metal lacquer on each seperate panel instead and the white problem is solved... hehe ;D
I can just see the bloke at the local model shop going 'oh no, not him again'. I saw in NZ at Bay hobbies you can buy the big Humbrol enamel tins, I thought I would check back here and the bloke said no such thing... probably get's more money out of me for twenty tins instead of two ;D
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Post by Fletcher400 on Apr 23, 2009 4:28:33 GMT 12
Ive never tired the alcad paints before but have seen some great results, Found a better interior green while at the hobby shop today, Tamiya XF-21 sky, looks more the part than the XF-71, well fletcher wise that is ;D
When painting silver I usually shoot a coat of grey on first it takes the metal finish colours better, Id be happy to do this for you Zac if you wanted me too. Cheers
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Post by ZacYates on Apr 23, 2009 7:34:55 GMT 12
I was ACTUALLY thinking yellow, rather than silver ;D........I'll save silver for a 225 if someone makes one, I'd love to do BDS as she first flew. And besides, when the 1:72 Fletcher is EVENTUALLY released, I'll have to do one of Robertson's turboprop jobs... Alan, if you can think of some sort of primer to apply that will help a yellow scheme, I'd be very grateful
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Post by Fletcher400 on Apr 23, 2009 13:40:56 GMT 12
Yellow can be a pain to paint, Using a base coat will definetely help, Ive always used grey primer for a base with the darker colours, I did this on a r/c trainer a few years back, I would use a good quality paint for the yellow, Ive used Plastikote enamel with good results, but will need to be sprayed on in mist coats to build up the opacity, maybe a white matt primer would be ok although I havnt tried this. I always do tests on some scrap before doing painting to check out the results, get a bit of white sheet styrene, shoot on some grey let it dry then start layering up the yellow- if its a goer, then I'll go mask up I'll take a stab in the dark here... ZK-EGK ? in the yellow WAW scheme? Cheers
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Post by ZacYates on Apr 24, 2009 14:53:16 GMT 12
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Post by ZacYates on Aug 15, 2009 8:09:08 GMT 12
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Post by Fletcher400 on Aug 15, 2009 14:54:00 GMT 12
Awesome to see it finished! Looks superb!
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Post by ZacYates on Aug 15, 2009 15:17:56 GMT 12
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Post by Fletcher400 on Aug 15, 2009 15:33:17 GMT 12
Looking good in those last few pics, yeah its been awhile since your last update! I see Mr Stokes has done a great job on the decals aswell. Was looking at DJE a few days ago! and considering this for my next modelling subject but I think at the moment its a toss up between the one at the top on page 37 of Lou Forhecz's book or the one page 52 in WAW's sister company
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Post by ZacYates on Aug 15, 2009 15:48:18 GMT 12
Page 52. DEFINITELY the one on page 52. But let's keep this thread for the Ceres please
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