Nice video and still shots Errol. What kind of setting do you use for the video as there isn't the usual weird effects you get from some video. Some lovely prop arcs!
Thanks. It's about understanding your equipment's and your own limitations. This was shot on a Nikon D7000 DSLR (which is moderately old, 2011) with a Nikkor 16-85mm VR zoom lens (a stabilised low-end-of-midrange offering). I didn't use my later D7200 (2015), mainly because I am much less familiar with its video controls at this stage - I've concentrated on using it to take stills.
All but the first section was shot with the sun behind me, which is always useful, especially when the subject is silver!
I didn't zoom while shooting - the focusing system on DSLRs struggle with it.
I didn't pan while shooting - this can cause 'leaning' of the shot (caused by the 'top' pixels on the sensor being recorded effectively before the 'bottom' ones - a "rolling shutter"), and the subject was stationary (filming while walking with a DSLR is ill-advised from the video quality POV, and I was on an active airfield!)
As you can see, my attempts to hold the shot steady were only partially successful, to a large degree because of the wind. I've chosen not to acquire a (full height) tripod (clumsy, wouldn't use it often) which would deal with this most of the time. I decided not to use available stabilisation software in post-processing, because it just smooths wobbles, rather than freezing a spot relative to the frame - I'm considering buying the later type of software.
Often I was cupping a hand over the built-in mic on the camera, to reduce wind noise. This didn't help with the stabilisation.
Prop arcs - see below
The really odd propeller effects that you often see (especially from phones or go-pro type camera) are due to the rolling shutter issue interacting with the propeller speed and frame rate of the camera. Mid-aged DSLRs deal with this issue a lot better than your phone (proper video cameras avoid it nearly all the time I think?). The DSLR gets it's data off the sensor a lot faster than a go-pro, and it is easier to adjust the DSLR's settings (shutter speed, typically?) to avoid the problem in any given situation.
Prop arcs - short answer, having a slow shutter speed (1/20 or 1/25 in this case, probably should have gone to 1/15). Long answer, I was only able to have that slow a shutter speed (without over-exposing a significant proportion of the silver Mosquito) because a purchased a '3-stop' filter since I took photos of the previous Saturday's engine run. I'd noticed that with a shutter speed as slow as I would like to get good prop arcs, my lens was a letting in too much light (a lens can only 'stop down' so far), and I was 'blowing out' much of the Mossie - just seeing solid white. A 3-stop filter screws on the front of the lens, and only lets one eighth of the light through to the lens (2 to the power of 3 is 8 - you can get higher and lower stop-number filters). So yesterday I could slow my shutter speed down, and still see the detail of the Mossie (as the desired amount of light that the lens was letting through to the camera's sensor was within the limits of what the lens could provide).
TLDR: Cheap and/or small cameras often do weird stuff when filming props. More expensive and larger DSLRs are flexible enough that they generally work around potential issues with planning and accessories - even when using their secondary function!
Edit: Other people with other aims, skills and equipment would probably do things differently.