Getting ready to restart

[flyjoe180]

Following a huge clean out of my stuff I realised the time had come to either build some of my 30+ kits or dispose of them. As I cannot bring myself to dispose of most of them, it's time to get back into some part-time model making.

I found that I still have most of my old tools, brushes and sandpaper etc. I have an airbrush, I only ever used it once or twice many moons ago. I preferred hand brushing. It's propellant was a compressed gas cylinder, the replaceable type. I recall having issues with this type of propellant, the can iced up and I recall it got quite blotchy after that.

Question 1: What is the best form of airbrush propellant? I would prefer not to use a noisy compressor, but also given my experience with the cans I would like to avoid them too. I have observed how much better the finishes are on models here using airbrushes, rather than hand brushing.

Question 2: What is the reliable lifespan of a tin of Humbrol enamel paint? If I can restore the paint I would like to avoid the cost of replacing them all.

Question 3: I read the weathering and detailing section of this forum. People talk about using detailing pens and weathering pencils. Can anyone elaborate, help with a cost-effective method of applying detail lines to models? I presume smoke and oil marks can be applied using a soft lead and smudging it?

I'll more than probably have more questions soon. Bear in mind I'm not entering competitions or going commercial, I want to enjoy the hobby again. Any help/advice appreciated. Cheers.

[baz62]

Oct 17, 2011 12:45:18 GMT 12 flyjoe180 said:

Following a huge clean out of my stuff I realised the time had come to either build some of my 30+ kits or dispose of them. As I cannot bring myself to dispose of most of them, it's time to get back into some part-time model making.

Which one are you going to start with from the 30?

[flyjoe180]

Something easy. Maybe a Hawker Hurricane, or a Spitfire. Or something that will be cheap to replace after I hash it.

[Dave Homewood]

Joe, you can get some fairly quiet little compressors these days, specifically of indoor work like modelling. Another method I have heard of but never tried is apparently if you hook the hose up to a car tyre the releasing air will propell the airbrish, but to be honest I cannot see it being any better than a can of propellent.

As for Humbrol paint, I have always found that so long as it has not gone completely dry and become a lump, it's ok. Whe you thin it for airbrushing it will add extra life to it I guess too.

[alanw]

Oct 17, 2011 12:45:18 GMT 12 flyjoe180 said:

Question 1: What is the best form of airbrush propellant? I would prefer not to use a noisy compressor, but also given my experience with the cans I would like to avoid them too. I have observed how much better the finishes are on models here using airbrushes, rather than hand brushing.

Question 2: What is the reliable lifespan of a tin of Humbrol enamel paint? If I can restore the paint I would like to avoid the cost of replacing them all.

Question 3: I read the weathering and detailing section of this forum. People talk about using detailing pens and weathering pencils. Can anyone elaborate, help with a cost-effective method of applying detail lines to models? I presume smoke and oil marks can be applied using a soft lead and smudging it?
.

A to Q1
A. I have the Tamiya Spray works, has a compressor that
IMHO is not too noisy and has two nozzles to allow for general
and fine spraying, had it nearly 16 years.

Really depends on what you want to achieve with your model

I have used the spray can propellant but didn't really like it.

A to Q2
A I have some Humbrol cans that are at least 10 years
old, (have not been used much though) that are still good to use.

As long as you can seal them properly after use, they should last.
One issue I have had, is paint build up around the lip. I generally
use a sharp scalpel to remove the paint build up.

Finally, stir them well and they will last.

A to Q3

A Weathering is a process that like the Cheese commercial
says "Good Things Take Time".

You can think about "scale Effect" in painting by adding some
white to lighten the paint.

Dry brushing (using an old paint brush):- dipping it in paint
and wiping off the excess until there is barely any paint left,
and using a soft stroke, brush raised detail to highlight a part
ie Instrument panel dial faces etc

Dry brushing can help with leading edge weathering, panels
that are removed often ie gun bay panels etc
key thing is "less is more"

Here is a 1/32 R 1820 Engine from my Brewster Buffalo
(488 Sqn) note the engine cylinders, the "bronzing"
was just a subtle build up to look that way


Trumpeter 1/32 Avenger build (RNZAF) note the
cylinders again achieved by subtle brushing


The port console of my Buffalo dry brushing "Highlights"
certain areas to look worn or a more "scale colour"


Regarding pencil lead, using a 7/8B rub over some
fine sandpaper (wet/dry type) the dust I use it on models
to portray dirt, gun ejector port shell propellant residue.

You can buy acrylic paint to potray oil etc that can be
thinned and blown over with an airbrush (sans paint)
to show oil leaks/throw from the engine

Really, best thing is to play with it, you will soon develop
your own techniques


Hope that helps you

Regards

Alan

[flyjoe180]

Alan, many thanks, that is very useful information. I will be experimenting in the next few weeks, I have a few older models which have been killed by dust and pets over the years so will try the weathering and detailing methods you state on them first.

[flyjoe180]

Dave, cheers for your info too. I will look at compressors I think. The tyre tube sounds dodgy to me, I am thinking a constant pressure is quite important, which a tyre tube can't provide. Plus you need to inflate it anyway so may as well have a compressor direct to the airbrush? One of the biggest issues with the original compressed gas can was it iced up and led to change switch pressure output. That was when I reverted to brushwork exclusively. But time to HTFU and get into airbrushing I think.

[Dave Homewood]

Joe, you might find this old post by Kerry (fockewulf) of interest regarding airbrushing:
rnzaf.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=modeltips&action=display&thread=5615

Kerry lives just down the road from you and he's a definite expert in airbrushing, he has been collecting them for years and does superb work. I'm sure if you wanted some tips he would be happy to help. If you can't get him via PM, let me know.

[Bruce]

When I brought my Airbrush on TradeMe, I purchased a little Chinese - made airbrush compressor from another seller. Only a few hundred dollars, goes really well, nice and quiet and worth every cent...

[flyjoe180]

Cheers guys for the pointers.

[general]

Joe, you mentioned pens for adding lines. There are occasions where the ink from draftsmen or artists pens can bleed through the paint or clear coat. (Although, it's never happened to me. Touch wood.)
For safety and simplicity a soft or dark graphite 'B' pencil sharpened to a fine point on fine sandpaper is a lot more forgiving. If there's any residual sheen on the line it's easily fixed with a flat coat.

S/thing else that would be a good investment is artists' chalk pastels.
Check out a local art supplies store for the individual pastel sticks. or even a small, basic set.
You'll only need to use white, black, tan, brown and red. Maybe blue and yellow, too. They're the easiest thing - grate the stick over coarse sandpaper and gently shake it off into a shallow dish, like those srtist's palettes with the multiple indentations.
Apply it on a 'matt' coat with a short, thin (anything '000' to '1'), stiff brush. For obvious reasons a gloss coat wouldn't work. Small dabs of chalk dust at first and scrub into the paint surface gradually to build up the level of contrast you need.
Be careful about too much scrubbing. After a while you're left with a satin surface, ironically, and that won't absorb any more!
All it takes is practice.

I picked up about 20 sticks, from the rack of dozens, in a store on the Gold Coast, focussing more on the dull greys, greens and browns.

Hope it helps.

Rossky

[phil]

I just use a cheapish compressor with a tank I got from Mitre10. Although it is noisy when it's running, it's got a 25 litre tank that it charges to about 120psi and this lasts about half a painting session. Most of the time it's off and I'm just running from the tank, so there's no noise and more importantly no pulsing that you get with a lot of compressors.

The other think you need is a decent water trap, nothing is more frustrating than spitting water ruining your paint job.

I've been airbrushing for about 25 years and own three different airbrushes (a Badger 150, an Iwata HP C and an Iwata HP C+) and to be honest, having a good air supply is about 50% of the battle won when it comes to learning to airbrush well.

[flyjoe180]

Thanks for the info guys, I still have yet to take any action but will be getting onto it soon. I appreciate your advice

[flyjoe180]

Oct 17, 2011 19:17:29 GMT 12 Dave Homewood said:

Joe, you might find this old post by Kerry (fockewulf) of interest regarding airbrushing:
rnzaf.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=modeltips&action=display&thread=5615

Kerry lives just down the road from you and he's a definite expert in airbrushing, he has been collecting them for years and does superb work. I'm sure if you wanted some tips he would be happy to help. If you can't get him via PM, let me know.

Hey Dave, the links in Kerry's post are all dead.

[Dave Homewood]

I'm sending you a PM Joe

[flyjoe180]

Thank you Dave.

[dingo]

Hi Joe,

Have a look at this website: www.florymodels.co.uk. It's full of hints and tips on every topic you need with full video builds. I joined about 12 months ago and it's been worth it's weight in gold. They also produce their own weathering washes that i use on all my models now. I just brought a cheap airbrush and compressor set off trademe and it's made a massive difference to the finish of my models. there are alot of different techniques you can use to get different finishes just by using the airbrush before you even get into the weathering sticks and things. Once you invest in the airbrush you'll never go back to brushing.

Cheers
Dean

[flyjoe180]

Cheers Dean, may I ask what type of compressor airbrush set you bought? There are quite a few on TM and I need some advice please. I will check that website out, sounds good

[dingo]

This is the one I brought. www.trademe.co.nz/toys-models/models/tools-supplies/auction-422481767.htm. It's pretty good for what it is and what I use it for. The only thing I find though is that since it is only fairly small it can overheat when using it heavily causing condensation to come through the line. It's easily overcome by just giving it a rest to cool down between colours.
I don't like spotless models most of the time so I preshade mine with a black on the panel lines, Then put the colour over top, then post shade by lightening the panels themselves with a slightly lighter shade of the top colour.
Here's my first ever attempt at airbrushing: s362974870.onlinehome.us/forums/air/index.php?showtopic=218915&st=0&p=2080847&hl=memphis%20belle&fromsearch=1&#entry2080847

[flyjoe180]

Thanks Dean, I will investigate further. Christmas is near