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Post by Calum on Apr 23, 2015 20:57:43 GMT 12
Everything's looking good so time for masking with dots I used Mircomask on the cabin windows . Time to put the tail planes on. I first put on the vertical fin but after trying to fit the tail planes I snapped it off as it is better to fit the tail planes first. There are locating lugs for these but because of the fuselage length issue I had to adjust one side. These were attached with 5 min epoxy and I figured I'd pin them once it set. I used a tooth pick because it fit the hole. It was now I had my second oh crap moment ................. I've got a tail sitter Such a rookie mistake..........................
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Post by harrysone on Apr 23, 2015 21:00:14 GMT 12
Time to load those engine cowls with lead shot!
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Post by Deleted on Apr 24, 2015 8:31:26 GMT 12
You can do it, Calum!
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Post by Bruce on Apr 24, 2015 10:28:34 GMT 12
An inconspicuous tail stand may be the solution. I find if its about the tailing edge of the wing tail stands arent obvious to most viewers. Of course Andovers did actually have tail stands when loading....
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Post by harrysone on Apr 24, 2015 14:45:23 GMT 12
it's coming along nicely, like all these limited run kits they do have their issues...keep patient with it. I have built the Welsh Andover in 1/144, a much easier proposition www.welshmodels.co.uk/MT31.html The boxing comes with all the decals/markings & paint references for any Andover in RNZAF service
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Post by Calum on Apr 25, 2015 16:56:03 GMT 12
Time to load those engine cowls with lead shot! No they are to far back, and solid I did consider mounting it on a base and scratch building the tail support strut (which we had, and used quite often when the aircraft was kneeling But in the end I figured I'd drill a hole in the underside and insert some weights, then I'd squeeze in some CA and let it set This was all going well until the next Oh crap moment--- I was using thin CA what if it ran into the cockpit and got on the inside of the windows..... guess what it did so the cockpit piece had to come off I used fine sanders and Tamiya polish to get rid of the worst of the damage, not all of it mind you but as much as I could. Also stuffed more weight in there. Thank goodness this thing has white metal for the undercarriage. And then is was back to putty and sanding It's no tail sitter now.
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Post by Calum on Apr 25, 2015 16:58:10 GMT 12
it's coming along nicely, like all these limited run kits they do have their issues...keep patient with it. I have built the Welsh Andover in 1/144, a much easier proposition www.welshmodels.co.uk/MT31.html The boxing comes with all the decals/markings & paint references for any Andover in RNZAF service Is that a resin kit, or plastic? Do you know of any online builds? I'm quite interested in doing the VIP and Euro 1 schemes
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Post by Bruce on Apr 25, 2015 18:59:06 GMT 12
My Contrail vac Form Andover needed a fair bit of weight too - and that was with the light vac form structure. This looks like it'll be a nice model. Good work!
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Post by harrysone on Apr 26, 2015 8:47:22 GMT 12
Hi Calum the welsh kit is multi-media, vac-form fuselage, resin wing, engines and vertical tail/hz stabs with whitemetal props & landing gear. Quite an easy build with minimal vac-form. I'll see if I can scan the paint reference sheet unfortunately can't find the other page (plan views & delivery scheme) but working on it
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Post by harrysone on Apr 26, 2015 10:48:38 GMT 12
OK found other drawings... Hope these help?
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Post by Calum on Apr 26, 2015 22:47:11 GMT 12
Thanks for those. The decal sheet with the kit does have instructions for the SEA scheme, and I have the RNZAF drawings for the VIP, UN and Euro1/Lizard scheme but not the SEA scheme . These will be helpful.
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Post by Calum on Apr 26, 2015 22:47:30 GMT 12
Onto the wings.... These are very heavy and the join is IMHO Not ideal for such a big weight. I used 5 min expoy and just sat there and held it until it went off. Once it had set I drilled 5 holes at an angle and inserted brass wire. Before each join I roughed up the surface a bit to give the epoxy to something to grab onto. The right wing went on without a hitch but the left wing was much more troublesome. I ended up breaking it off 2 times before it finally set. I didn't need too much filler on the underside. Or on the top, although this thing has so far eaten a can Tamiya primer . But I did knock in one of the windows :x I'm not sure of how the best way to fix this, I could make a window out of white glue, or cut a piece of clear plastic and try and glue it in. But all the windows are recessed quite a bit so I want to try and make it look the same as the others Hence, I'm in need of suggestions/guidance
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Post by Calum on Apr 27, 2015 22:07:35 GMT 12
Something else had been bothering me about this, the angle of the front windscreen compared to the fin just wasn't right. This was probably as result of removing the cockpit piece earlier on. I was just going to ignore it..... The image below doesn't show it that well. But it was definitely there I got a few ideas on how to fix the window issue here, and at some other places. But with nose alignment issue as well I figured I'd go the nuclear option. Another advantage was I could get rid of the one peice of lead that was rattling around inside. The cut was pretty square and I tidied it up a with a few swipes across a piece of sandpaper on my glass work surface. Here's the weight i put in earlier Whilst I was inspecting the inside I noticed the white glue I'd squeezed in (along with CA) hadn't gone off and had run on the inside of the fuselage. I picked of some of the micro mask and the windows weren't looking that great so I popped then out and decided to see what windows made of Deluxe Materials Glue and Glaze would look like. If this works I figure I can pop out all the windows and put make new ones after painting--- think of all that masking time I'll save..... I guess I find out tomorrow
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Post by 11SQNLDR on Apr 28, 2015 9:09:08 GMT 12
I must say I'm enjoying this thread thanks Calum, you've got more staying power than me! A touch of irony with the "S&M" brand.... You'd need to be a bit if a Sado masochist to go through what you are enduring with this build It will be great once finally done and dusted, as a diecast collector I've often wished for a 1/72 scale Andover but the chances of seeing one are pretty much zero.
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Post by harrysone on Apr 28, 2015 13:10:37 GMT 12
Once you get the cockpit lined up...the problem will be that your nosewheel u/c bay won't be central
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Post by Calum on Apr 28, 2015 15:02:03 GMT 12
Once you get the cockpit lined up...the problem will be that your nosewheel u/c bay won't be central Id consider that, and it was a little off to begin with. I'm pretty sure I can adjust the landing gear/ doors to hide that, plus the front part only needs rotating just a fraction..
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Post by Calum on Apr 28, 2015 22:36:50 GMT 12
Results of the experiment. The window on the right is really nice and clear. The one on the left is still cloudy, it was cloudy overnight so I added another coat of glue this morning. I assume the glue hasn't dried yet. I reckon I might go with the glue
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Post by harrysone on Apr 29, 2015 8:49:47 GMT 12
Xtal Klear (PVA) works very well for glazing, I have used it many times after painting (particularly spraying)...it saves time & can often look better than using pesky masking tape or masking fluids... The Andover is coming along nicely despite a bit of sweat & tears...here is another photo of my finished welsh model for encouragement
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Post by Deleted on Apr 29, 2015 9:12:41 GMT 12
Great work Calum, I thought about getting one of these when OMD first announced the partnership but I held off...as I will likely continue to do for a while. It's great to see such an in-depth build thread and to learn how to tackle the kit's issues.
Also Harry - another great one from you! Although I prefer the last, green-grey-green scheme myself.
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Post by Calum on Apr 29, 2015 14:15:43 GMT 12
Great work Calum, I thought about getting one of these when OMD first announced the partnership but I held off...as I will likely continue to do for a while. It's great to see such an in-depth build thread and to learn how to tackle the kit's issues. Also Harry - another great one from you! Although I prefer the last, green-grey-green scheme myself. Thanks Zac, although many of the issues are of my own making. The kit isn't particularly bad, I've just ben a little to impatient at times.
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